Sushruta Samhita
Suśruta Saṃhitā सुश्रुतसंहिता
| Author / compiler | Sushruta (Dhanvantari school) |
|---|---|
| Redactor | Nagarjuna (Buddhist; Uttara Tantra addition) |
| Composed | c. 600 BCE |
| Redacted | c. 150 CE (Nagarjuna's expansion with Uttara Tantra) |
Significance for cosmetology
Sushruta is the primary source for Ayurvedic cosmetology. While Charaka frames the theory, Sushruta gives the operational details. Three chapters alone account for ~80 % of all classical cosmetic recipes:
- Sutra Ch.38 establishes the 37 Drug Groups (Ganas). The Eladi-gana (cosmetic group), Sarivadi-gana (refrigerant face group), Anjanadi-gana (collyrium group), and Rodhradi-gana (astringent face group) are foundational for every face oil, face wash, and face pack.
- Cikitsa Ch.20 (Kshudra Roga) is the dedicated chapter on what we would today call dermatology + cosmetic dermatology: alopecia (Indra-lupta), acne (Yuvana-pidaka), melasma (Vyanga, Nilika), freckles (Tila-kalaka), moles (Jatu-mani), dandruff (Darunaka), cracked feet (Pada-dari).
- Cikitsa Ch.24 is the master Dinacharya chapter at 40,000+ words — the most complete classical exposition of daily personal-care routine, from tooth-brushing to bathing to anointment.
Cikitsa Ch.25 (Mishraka) contains the Vyanga-hara Ghrita (the structural ancestor of every modern Kumkumadi Tailam) and Sushruta’s Palita-Hara Taila — the iron-pot anti-greying hair oil still made in Kerala households today.
Manuscript and translation history
The Sushruta Samhita as we have it is in two parts: the original 120 chapters (5 Sthanas — Sutra, Nidana, Sharira, Cikitsa, Kalpa) attributed to Sushruta the surgeon (Dhanvantari school, Banares, c. 600 BCE), and the Uttara Tantra of 66 additional chapters, traditionally credited to Nagarjuna the Buddhist alchemist (c. 150 CE).
Kaviraj Kunjalal Bhishagratna of Calcutta produced the first complete English translation between 1907 and 1916 (Vol I — Sutra Sthana, 1907; Vol II — Nidana through Kalpa, 1911; Vol III — Uttara Tantra, 1916). All three volumes are public domain worldwide (pre-1923 US; pre-1957 India). His translation is direct, includes a critical apparatus with Dallana’s, Gayadasa’s, and Chakradatta’s commentaries, and is the gold standard for the English-language Sushruta.
Extraction notes
The Bhishagratna English text is the primary source used for every Sushruta citation in this formulary. We have read in full and extracted recipes from Sutra Ch.38, Cikitsa Ch.9, Ch.20, Ch.22, Ch.24, Ch.25, Ch.27–30 (Rasayana), and Uttara Ch.26. The text is high-quality OCR (English-only); each cited verse can be re-verified against the printed 1911/1916 editions at archive.org.
Structure
| Sthana | Name | Chapters | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sutra | Sutra Sthana (General Principles) | 46 | Ch.38 Dravya-sangrahaniya — the 37 Drug Groups (Ganas) including Eladi, Sarivadi, Anjanadi, Salasaradi, Lakshadi. Ch.45 liquid substances. Ch.46 diet. |
| Nidana | Nidana Sthana (Pathology) | 16 | |
| Sharira | Sharira Sthana (Anatomy) | 10 | |
| Cikitsa | Cikitsita Sthana (Therapeutics) | 40 | Ch.9 Kushtha (Mahatikta Ghrita, Mahanila Ghrita, Vajraka Taila, Maha-Vajraka Taila). Ch.20 Kshudra Roga (Indra-lupta, Yuvana-pidaka, Vyanga, Pada-dari, Darunaka, Jatu-mani). Ch.24 Anagatabadha-pratishedhaniya — the master Dinacharya chapter. Ch.25 Mishraka — the anti-greying and anti-Vyanga ghee. |
| Kalpa | Kalpa Sthana (Toxicology) | 8 | |
| Uttara | Uttara Tantra | 66 | Added by Nagarjuna. Ch.26 Shiroroga — diseases of the head (hair fall, dandruff, scalp). Ch.18 Anjana-vidhi — collyrium / kohl preparation. |
Beauty-relevant chapters
- Sutra Ch.38 — Dravya-sangrahaniya (the 37 drug groups including Eladi cosmetic group)
- Sutra Ch.45 — Dravadravya-vidhi (liquid substances used in preparations)
- Sutra Ch.46 — Annapana-vidhi (diet affecting complexion)
- Cikitsa Ch.9 — Kushtha-cikitsa (skin diseases — bitter ghees, anti-Kushtha oils)
- Cikitsa Ch.20 — Kshudra-roga-cikitsa (the master cosmetic-conditions chapter)
- Cikitsa Ch.22 — Mukharoga (mouth/lip/throat affections)
- Cikitsa Ch.24 — Anagatabadha-pratishedhaniya (the master Dinacharya chapter)
- Cikitsa Ch.25 — Mishraka-cikitsa (anti-greying oil; anti-Vyanga face ghee)
- Cikitsa Ch.27–30 — Rasayana (rejuvenation, four chapters)
- Uttara Tantra Ch.18 — Anjana-vidhi
- Uttara Tantra Ch.26 — Shiroroga (hair fall, scalp diseases)
- Uttara Tantra Ch.64 — Niyamana (rules of health)
Translations & editions
| Translator | Year | Publisher | License |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kaviraj Kunjalal Bhishagratna | 1907–1916 | Calcutta (self-published) | public-domain |
Recipes citing this source (43)
- Amalaki Eye-Wash · wash · eyes
- Bala Taila (Simple Vata abhyanga oil) · taila · body, whole-body
- Bhringaraja-Mahabhringa Taila (Anti-hair-fall master oil) · taila · scalp, hair
- Bhringaraja Taila (Simple hair oil) · taila · scalp, hair
- Champakadi Lepa (Floral complexion mask) · lepa · face
- Chandanadi Taila (Pitta-pacifying summer abhyanga) · taila · body, whole-body
- Classical Tambula (Mouth freshener — areca-omitted) · procedure · mouth
- Classical Tooth Powder (Sushruta-Trijata) · churna · teeth, gums
- Triphala-Bhringaraja Darunaka Scalp Mask · lepa · scalp
- Eladi-gana Anulepa (Body perfume oil) · taila · body, whole-body
- Eladi Body Mist (Modern aromatic spray) · wash · body
- Eladi Choornam (Eladi-gana face powder) · churna · face, body
- Karna Purana Oil (Ear-fill therapy) · taila · ears
- Kshira-vriksha Mukha-Kshalana (Daily face wash) · wash · face, eyes
- Kumkumadi Lepa (Saffron night mask) · lepa · face
- Kumkumadi Tailam (classical oil version) · taila · face
- Lakshadi Lepa (Lac face mask) · lepa · face
- Mahanarayana Taila (Universal Vata abhyanga oil) · taila · body, whole-body
- Mahanila Ghrita (Deep anti-leucoderma ghee) · ghrita · body
- Mahatikta Ghrita (Great Bitter Ghee) · ghrita · face, body, whole-body
- Mukha-Saundaryakara Lepa (Beauty face pack) · lepa · face
- Multani-Lodhra Lepa (Oily-skin face pack) · lepa · face
- Nalpamaradi Tailam (Four-bark brightening oil) · taila · face, body, whole-body
- Nila Ghrita (Blue Medicated Ghee) · ghrita · body, face
- Pada-Dari Balm (Cracked-heel balm) · balm · feet
- Sandalwood Lip Balm (Pitta lips) · balm · lips
- Rasanjana Anjana (Cosmetic kohl) · anjana · eyes
- Rose-Amalaki Toner (Modern face toner) · wash · face
- Smashru-vardhana Beard Oil · taila · beard, face
- Snigdha Udvartana for Vata (Moisturizing exfoliating pack) · churna · body, whole-body
- Sushruta's Palita-hara Taila (Iron-pot anti-greying) · taila · scalp, hair
- Tikta Sarpih (Bitter Ghee — simple) · ghrita · face, body
- Til-Saindhava Gandusha (Daily oil-pulling) · procedure · mouth, teeth, gums
- Classical Tridoshic Ubtan · churna · face, body
- Triphala Eye-Wash · wash · eyes
- Triphaladi Ruksha Udvartana (Kapha weight-reduction powder) · churna · body, whole-body
- Vajraka Taila (Anti-Kushtha medicated oil) · taila · body
- Vala-Atibala-Yashti-Rajani Lepa (Anti-Vyanga lepa) · lepa · face
- Vata Hand Cream (Mahanarayana-based) · balm · body, feet
- Vibhitaka Anti-Greying Oil · taila · scalp, hair
- Vyanga-hara Ghrita (Kumkumadi precursor) · ghrita · face
- Yashtimadhu-Honey Lip Balm · balm · lips
- Yuvana-Pidaka Lepa (Acne face pack) · lepa · face
Classical groups defined here (15)
- Anjanadi Gana · gana · Anti-bleeding; anti-toxic; anti-burning — the collyrium / Anjana group.
- Aragvadhadi Gana · gana · Anti-Kapha & anti-poison; Anti-Meha, Anti-Kushtha, fever, anti-vomiting, anti-itch. The major anti-skin-disease group.
- Astavarga (the 8 rejuvenation herbs) · astavarga · Sub-group of Kakolyadi — the prestigious 8 rejuvenation herbs, all now commercially extinct.
- Dashamula · panchamula · The 'ten roots' — combination of Brihat-Panchamula + Laghu-Panchamula. Tridoshic; respiratory; febrifuge; the structural base of every Mahanarayana / Bala-style abhyanga oil.
- Eladi Gana · gana · The aromatic / cosmetic group — anti-Vata + Kapha; antitoxic; anti-pimple; anti-rash; anti-itch; fragrance.
- Kakolyadi Gana (Madhura Gana) · gana · Anti-Pitta + anti-Vata + anti-blood; demulcent; rasayana — face-rejuvenation group.
- Kshira-Vriksha (milk-yielding trees) · kshira-vriksha · The latex-yielding fig trees — bark used decocted for face / hair washes and as Drava in cosmetic oils.
- Lakshadi Gana · gana · Anti-Kushtha + anti-Pitta + anti-Kapha; vermifuge; antiseptic ulcer cleaner — for medicated oils targeting skin disease.
- Mustadi Gana · gana · Anti-Kapha / Shleshma; uterine; purifies breast-milk; digestive — adjunct in oily-skin treatments.
- Priyangvadi Gana · gana · Cosmetic / face / astringent — used in face packs and after-sun preparations.
- Rodhradi Gana · gana · Anti-Kapha & anti-fat; astringent; uterine / vaginal; anti-toxic; styptic — used in face-lepas for tightening, pore-reduction.
- Salasaradi Gana · gana · Anti-Kushtha; anti-fat; anti-Meha; jaundice — many cosmetic heartwoods.
- Sarivadi Gana · gana · Anti-Pitta / refrigerant face & body wash group — for thirst, hemoptysis, burning sensations, bilious fevers.
- Trikatu · trikatu · The 'three pungents' — Pippali + Marica + Shunthi in equal parts. Anti-fat & anti-Kapha; appetiser; bio-enhancer; cuts mucous.
- Triphala · triphala · The 'three fruits' — Haritaki + Bibhitaki + Amalaki in equal parts. Tridoshic; anti-Meha; anti-Kushtha; appetiser; eyesight-improving.
Ingredients citing this source (72)
- Aguru (Agarwood) · Aquilaria agallocha / A. malaccensis
- Amra-tvak (Mango Bark) · Mangifera indica (bark)
- Anjana (Antimony) · Antimony sulphide (Sb₂S₃, stibnite)
- Arjuna (Terminalia arjuna) · Terminalia arjuna
- Asana (Indian Kino Tree) · Pterocarpus marsupium
- Ashvattha (Peepal) · Ficus religiosa
- Atibala (Indian Mallow) · Abutilon indicum
- Bakuchi (Babchi) · Cullen corylifolium (= Psoralea corylifolia)
- Bala (Country Mallow) · Sida cordifolia
- Bhringaraja (False Daisy) · Eclipta prostrata (= E. alba)
- Sandalwood (Chandana) · Santalum album
- Citraka (White-Flowered Leadwort) · Plumbago zeylanica
- Dadima-kanda (Pomegranate Stem) · Punica granatum (stem)
- Danti (Red physic nut) · Baliospermum montanum
- Daru-Haridra (Tree Turmeric) · Berberis aristata
- Devadaru (Himalayan Cedar) · Cedrus deodara
- Cardamom (Ela) · Elettaria cardamomum
- Gairika (Red Ochre) · Haematite (Fe₂O₃)
- Guggulu (Indian Bdellium) · Commiphora wightii / C. mukul
- Hribera (Fragrant Sticky Mallow) · Pavonia odorata
- Jatamansi (Indian Spikenard) · Nardostachys jatamansi
- Kakamachi (Black Nightshade) · Solanum nigrum
- Kapittha (Wood-apple) · Limonia acidissima
- Karanja (Indian Beech) · Pongamia pinnata (= Millettia pinnata)
- Karavira (Oleander) · Nerium indicum / N. oleander
- Saffron (Kumkuma) · Crocus sativus
- Kunduruka (Indian Frankincense) · Boswellia serrata
- Kushtha (Costus root) · Saussurea costus / S. lappa
- Kustumburu (Coriander Seeds) · Coriandrum sativum
- Kutaja (Conessi) · Holarrhena pubescens / H. antidysenterica
- Laksha (Lac Resin) · Laccifer lacca insect resin on Butea host tree
- Clove (Lavanga) · Syzygium aromaticum
- Lodhra (Lodh tree) · Symplocos racemosa
- Beeswax (Madhuchchhishta) ·
- Henna (Madyantika) · Lawsonia inermis
- Malati (Spanish Jasmine) · Jasminum grandiflorum
- Manjishtha (Indian Madder) · Rubia cordifolia
- Multani Mitti (Fuller's Earth) · Calcium montmorillonite clay
- Naga-Keshara (Cobra Saffron) · Mesua ferrea
- Nilini (Indigo) · Indigofera tinctoria
- Blue Water-Lily (Nilotpala) · Nymphaea stellata (= N. nouchali)
- Neem (Nimba) · Azadirachta indica
- Nyagrodha (Banyan) · Ficus benghalensis
- Padma-keshara (Lotus Stamens) · Nelumbo nucifera (stamens)
- Lotus (Padma) · Nelumbo nucifera
- Padmaka (Himalayan Wild Cherry) · Prunus cerasoides
- Indian Bay Leaf (Tejpatta) · Cinnamomum tamala
- Pattanga (Sappan Wood) · Caesalpinia sappan
- Plaksha (Java Fig) · Ficus lacor (= F. virens)
- Priyangu (Beauty-Berry) · Callicarpa macrophylla
- Rakta-Chandana (Red Sandalwood) · Pterocarpus santalinus
- Rasanjana (Berberis Extract) · Concentrated Berberis aristata extract
- Saindhava (Rock Salt) · Halite (rock salt)
- Samudra-phena (Cuttlebone) · Sepia officinalis cuttlebone
- Saptaparna (Dita) · Alstonia scholaris
- Indian Sarsaparilla (Sariva) · Hemidesmus indicus
- Sarjarasa (Sal Resin) · Vateria indica / Shorea robusta
- Sarshapa (Mustard Seeds) · Brassica juncea / B. nigra (whole seed)
- Tagara (Indian Valerian) · Valeriana wallichii / V. jatamansi
- Sesame oil (Tila Taila) · Sesamum indicum
- Trayamana (Felwort) · Gentiana kurroo
- Turushka (Storax) · Liquidambar orientalis
- Tuvaraka (Chaulmoogra) · Hydnocarpus laurifolia / H. wightiana
- Cinnamon (Tvak) · Cinnamomum verum / C. zeylanicum
- Udumbara (Cluster Fig) · Ficus racemosa
- Vetiver / Khus (Ushira) · Vetiveria zizanioides (Chrysopogon zizanioides)
- Utpala (Water-Lily generic) · Nymphaea spp.
- Vacha (Sweet Flag) · Acorus calamus
- Valaka (Sweet Vetiver-Relative) · Pavonia odorata
- Vidanga (False Black Pepper) · Embelia ribes
- Licorice (Yashtimadhu) · Glycyrrhiza glabra
- Yavakshara (Barley Ash Alkali) · Plant ash alkali