Licorice (Yashtimadhu)

Functions

Yashtimadhu is the single most reliably identified Varnya herb — same plant across all classical traditions and modern pharmacy: Glycyrrhiza glabra.

Pharmacology

Licorice root contains:

• Glabridin — a potent tyrosinase inhibitor, the primary mechanism behind its complexion-brightening action. Standard cosmetic concentration: 0.1-0.5 % glabridin (which corresponds to ~5-20 % licorice root extract).
• Liquiritin and isoliquiritin — antioxidants
• Glycyrrhizin — anti-inflammatory, mild adaptogen
• 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid — Pitta-pacifying (anti-inflammatory) at the cellular level

Cosmetic uses

In the Ayurvedic recipes in this formulary, Yashtimadhu appears in 30+ formulations:

• Anti-Vyanga (anti-melasma) lepas — almost universally
• Brightening face oils (Kumkumadi family)
• Rasayana hair oils (Mahabhringa, Anu Taila)
• Eye preparations (Anjana, eye washes)
• Tooth powders (with Triphala)

Modern cosmetic substitutions

In commercial production, you’ll often see “Licorice extract” or “Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract” on INCI lists — that’s Yashtimadhu by another name. Standardised to glabridin content for predictable activity.

Safety

Generally regarded as safe topically. Systemic use (oral, large doses) can cause hypokalemia / pseudo-aldosteronism — but topical-cosmetic concentrations don’t pose this risk.

Collection & processing

Collection: Root harvested from 3-4 year old plants. India, Iran, China, and Spain are major sources.

Processing: Root sun-dried, powdered for cosmetic use. Aqueous extract (mulethi extract) is the standard cosmetic ingredient at 0.5-5 % concentration.

Used in 37 recipes