Sandalwood (Chandana)

Sandalwood (Chandana)

Functions

The single most-cited herb in Ayurvedic cosmetics. Chandana appears in 6 of the 37 Sushruta Ganas (Varnya, Kandu-ghna, Sarivadi, Salasaradi, Priyangvadi, Anjanadi) and is in virtually every classical face preparation.

Pharmacology

The active fraction is the essential oil (~5-6 % of dried heartwood), dominated by α- and β-santalols (~90 % of the oil). Documented pharmacology:

• Anti-inflammatory — α-santalol inhibits COX-2 and TNF-α
• Anti-tyrosinase — α-santalol shows skin-lightening action in clinical trials
• Anti-microbial — particularly against Propionibacterium acnes
• Photoprotective — reduces UV-induced skin damage markers in vivo
• Sedative when inhaled — explains its meditation-and-puja use across Asia

Cosmetic uses

• Face lepas — paste of sandalwood + rose water, applied 15-20 min, for radiance + cooling
• Pitta-prakriti face oils — sandalwood oil at 0.5-2 % in coconut-base oils
• Anjana / kohl — eye-cooling
• Anti-Vyanga lepas — combined with Manjishtha + Yashtimadhu

Sourcing notes (critical)

⚠️ Santalum album is CITES Appendix II listed since 1998. Indian sandalwood is government-controlled — only sandalwood from registered Mysore-tradition plantations is legal for export. Alternatives:

• S. spicatum (Western Australian sandalwood) — cosmetic-acceptable substitute, similar santalol content
• S. austrocaledonicum (Vanuatu) — premium acceptable
• ⚠️ Pterocarpus santalinus (“red sandalwood”) is botanically DIFFERENT — it is NOT a sandalwood; see Rakta-chandana.

For commercial Ayurvedic cosmetic production, source through TRACES (CITES-compliant traceability) from a licensed Mysore exporter.

Collection & processing

Collection: Heartwood is harvested from 30+ year old trees. The tree is parasitic and grows symbiotically with several hosts. Most commercial sandalwood now comes from plantations in Karnataka (Mysore) and Western Australia (S. spicatum, an acceptable substitute).

Processing: Heartwood ground to fine powder (#80 mesh) or steam-distilled for essential oil. Powder is the primary cosmetic form.

Used in 18 recipes